Christian Le Squer, the starry Breton reconnects with his roots

PORTRAIT – Crowned with three stars for twenty years, the chef of the Five (George V hotel, in Paris) also cultivates his Armorican roots in association with a group anchored from Ille-et-Vilaine to Finistère.

You should always be wary of a man who says to you: “I was born happy.” Usually, a few minutes later, he bursts into tears in your arms, under the weight of his neuroses. Not Christian Le Squer. At 59, he seems really happy with the turn his life has taken, his twenty years of 3-stars, the recognized achievement of his cuisine.

As its name suggests, the chef of Le Cinq, restaurant of the Parisian palace George V, is Breton. The little guy born in Hennebont (Morbihan) grew up on the banks of the ria d’Étel. Carpenter-cabinetmaker father, stay-at-home mother “and in the garden”, a sister, a brother. Born happy, therefore, nurtured “healthy” but without gastronomic epiphany. It was at sea, aboard a fishing boat fitted out by his uncle where he played the cabin boy during a summer, that the teenager discovered, at 14, the magic of the stove: “I stayed with the cook. We ate every four hours, each time the net was lifted. I was in awe, at home we did not know how to simmer.

Today he knows. Boss…

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